It’s a typical Monday morning and I’m driving along the relaxed sugar cane-enveloped road into Yamba, passing more RVs than I can count. It doesn’t take me long to discover why.
Pods of playful dolphins, blue waves dotted with just a handful of surfers, and trendy coffee shops humming with the friendly chit-chat of locals. Life’s sweet in Yamba, a sleepy surf town on the North Coast of New South Wales.
With a flourishing foodie scene, world-class surf fringed by white sandy beaches, oceans teeming with marine life and vast wilderness reserves on its doorstep, this laid-back coastal town has it all. It’s easy to spend a good week or more settling into the easy-going lifestyle that embodies Yamba. Join the locals for their daily 8:30 am ocean swim, glide over the glassy Clarence River on a kayak and in the evening, watch pods of dolphins frolic in the waterways.
Ready for your next RV escape? Let’s get into the ins and outs of this little pocket of New South Wales. A true camper’s heaven.
Where is Yamba
The Clarence River – the largest river on the eastern seaboard – separates the townships of Yamba and Ilkua in the Clarence Valley region. The river attracts fishing folk and kayakers to its gentle, marine-life-abundant waters, while Yamba’s nearby swell invites surfers from all over the country to relish the waves.
Where to stay in Yamba
Though Yamba’s classified as a small town, there are plenty of places to pitch a tent, park your RV or unpack your bags close to the water’s edge. Here are just a few of your choices.
Calypso Yamba Holiday Park
If location is your top priority, Calypso Yamba Holiday Park gets ten stars. Perched on the edge of the Clarence River in the heart of Yamba, a stay at this centrally-located caravan park puts you in the middle of all of the action. You’ll be closer to the town’s coffee shops than most hotels, a rarity in the RV world! Most importantly, you’ll have front-row seats to the river and the blazing sunsets that grace its shimmering waters every evening.
Calypso offers unpowered and powered sites, as well as comfortable cabins and units. Guests can use the park’s pool, too. Not that you would be short of splashing opportunities, with 11 beaches and several ocean pools on your doorstep.
Blue Dolphin Holiday Resort
A little further along the river and a 30-minute walk from the centre of Yamba is the town’s rendition of Disney World. Blue Dolphin Holiday Resort is an RV park, sure. But among the RVs, expect to encounter kids running in excitement to the climbing wall, slipping down water slides, flying into the sky from an air cushion or whizzing around in a kart. Let’s face it, for those with kids in tow, this is paradise. For those who don’t? The scenic river views, kayaks and swim-up pool bar are enough to count me in.
As well as standard powered sites and an enormous variety of cabins, deluxe powered sites on synthetic grass and ensuite sites are available.
Big4 Saltwater @ Yamba Holiday Park
This beloved caravan park combines family-friendly facilities with large powered and non-powered sites and modern cabins on the edge of the river. You’ll need a car to get anywhere, but with so many activities on offer at the park – think kayak hire, waterpark, pedal karts and a pool – this resort is a location in itself. Keep an eye out for local wildlife who frequent the area, including a friendly albino kangaroo.
Things to do in Yamba
Yamba is replete with family-friendly activities. Here are just a few of the top things to do.
Kayaking
Gazing over the glistening Clarence Valley River becomes an addictive hobby in Yamba – especially if you’ve bagged a waterfront campsite. But nothing beats gliding through its ripples on a kayak while hearing about the town’s evolution from Yamba Kayak owner, Phil. Yamba Kayak runs three tours daily, ranging from a three-hour morning adventure to a 1.5-hour serene sunset tour. Setting off from Hickey Island (which isn’t an island at all), you’ll paddle past mangroves, take a breather on Dart Island and, if you’re lucky, encounter dolphins and in season, migrating whales.
Surfing
I’ve surfed all over New South Wales, and Yamba’s Main Beach was by far one of my favourite spots. What did I love? The sub-tropical climate served up plenty of sunshine in mid-winter, the lack of crowds filled me with ease, and the friendly atmosphere felt like a breath of fresh air compared to Sydney’s every surfer for themselves mentality. I recently ventured out with Matt and Matt from Yamba-Angourie Surf School. The three of us spent two hours cheering, chuckling and chatting – in between riding waves, of course.
Hone your skills with a lesson with one (or both) Matts on Main Beach. If you’re a seasoned surfer, check Angourie Point, known for its tasty right-hand point breaks. Otherwise, the waves at Spookies, Pippi or Turners Beach will show you a good time.
Hiking
The Clarence Valley region is a mecca for hikers. In every direction, there’s a peaceful pathway leading to a spectacular view. In the centre of Yamba, follow the Breakwall Track that runs alongside the Clarence River and Turners Beach. Just last week I wandered along this pathway and at the same time, a giant pod of dolphins appeared under the sunset.
Keen hikers should add the Yuraygir coastal walk, which spans 65 km along the Clarence Coast through the traditional homelands of the Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl nations to their list. If ditching your RV for a night of off-grid, self-sufficient camping is your kind of adventure, bring your kit and make a base at Shelley Beach Campground. Otherwise, choose a section of the walk (I recommend the 10 km Angourie Walking Track) and take in the region’s beauty, where vast white sandy beaches meet rocky headlands and idyllic streams.
Ocean pools
Yamba Ocean Pool’s turquoise water is just as inviting as it looks. Its shallow base is perfect for swimming, family splashes or an invigorating dip. Nearby in Angourie, you’ll find the Blue and Green Pools. Both pools were once rock quarries, until one day, a freshwater spring was disturbed and two freshwater pools were formed just metres from the ocean. Launch yourself into the water from the rocky cliffs, or float in the crystal-clear waters.
Farmer’s markets
Every Wednesday, the Yamba Farmers and Producers Market brings 45 stalls to Whiting Beach Carpark, next to Turners Beach and the Yamba Breakwall. Open from 7 am to 11 am, browse everything from locally-distilled spirits to fresh vegetables, native jams and ready-to-eat food.
Where to eat
Yamba’s food scene is a blend of hipster surf cafes, classic pub grub and cosy, up-scale eateries. Here are my top picks for dining in Yamba.
Coffee
If campsite coffee doesn’t cut it for you, head to Clarence Street for a piping hot brew and a full-loaded bacon and egg roll at Gather. Next door sits the most Instagrammable spot in town. Summi’s brings surf, designer threads and coffee together under one pink roof. For the local recommendation (you can thank my surf instructor, Matt, for this one), try Laneway Lunchbox Espresso Bar. And if you just can’t stand the thought of leaving the beach, take a seat with a view at the Kiosk Yamba.
Food
For an authentic Turkish feast, make a beeline for Beachwood Cafe. Along with great pub food, the Pacific Hotel serves up the best view in town, with floor-to-ceiling windows revealing Main Beach. For a cosy Italian, you can’t go wrong at Sassafras. And for an Australian classic, grab a takeaway from Yamba’s Fisho and munch on fish and chips by the beach.
How to get to Yamba
Travellers can catch a flight from Ballina Airport, rent a vehicle and drive for 100 km to reach Yamba. Otherwise, it’s just a three-hour drive from Brisbane or an epic stop on a road trip from Sydney (a good seven-hour total drive). If you’re looking to rent an RV from Ballina, you’ll likely have to use Camplify (the Airbnb of RVs) as most major campervan rental companies are based only in capital cities.
So, when are you going?
When should you plan a trip to Yamba? If you’re looking for long days of sunbathing, beach fun and barbeques, plan your visit during the summer. For those who prefer to surf, hike, or get stuck into activities, I’d argue that winter is the best time of year to go. Winter sees cheaper prices, fewer people and mild weather that lends itself to the active traveller.
