You may have heard of the West MacDonnell Ranges in Central Australia and it’s beautiful swimming holes. But have you heard of its westerly twin, the East MacDonnell Ranges?
Located approximately 150 kilometres east of Alice Springs, the East MacDonnell Ranges (aka East Macs) offer a unique adventure in the Australian outback. While it’s easy to confuse the East Macs with its Western counterpart, the East Macs boast their own unique charm, featuring an old gold town, ancient Aboriginal rock art, breathtaking landscapes, historic homesteads, and a sandy riverbed where you can uncover red garnets. It’s a must-add destination to your adventure bucket list, but beyond the first 75 kilometres, you’ll need a 4WD
Starting your journey from Alice Springs along the Ross Highway, here’s what you can look forward to experiencing in the East MacDonnell Ranges:
Jessie Gap and Emily Gap
A mere 15-kilometer drive from Alice Springs along the Ross Highway will lead you to Emily Gap. This sacred site in the East MacDonnell Ranges boasts Aboriginal rock paintings just a short walk from the car park, narrating the Arrernte people’s caterpillar dreaming story. A quick 10-minute drive further takes you to Jessie Gap, another site adorned with Aboriginal rock art. Here, you can enjoy a leisurely five-minute stroll to admire these sacred paintings while picnicking at the available tables. Photography of the rock paintings is not allowed, but the stunning gap and gorges are well worth exploring, especially after rain when you might spot flocks of wild budgerigars.
Corroboree Rock
Located approximately 50 kilometres from Alice Springs, Corroboree Rock holds significant cultural value for the Arrernte people. It’s a sacred men’s site, and while you can take a short stroll around the rock (a dolomite outcrop) and read interpretive signage, detailed information is restricted to senior Aboriginal men.
Trephina Gorge
Continuing along the Ross Highway, you’ll find Trephina Gorge around 80 kilometres from Alice Springs. The last few kilometres leading to the gorge are unsealed but typically accessible by 2WD. After Trephina Gorge, the terrain becomes suitable for 4WD vehicles only. Trephina Gorge is renowned for its Aboriginal rock art, campgrounds, walking trails, and dramatic scenery. The easiest walk is the 500-meter return gorge stroll, leading to a semi-permanent waterhole. More extensive hikes, ranging from 2 to 9 kilometres, are available, with details on the NT Government Website.
There are actually two gorges that cut through the East MacDonnell Ranges here, Trephina Gorge and John Hayes Rock Hole. Accessing John Hayes Rock Hole requires a 4WD or a challenging 9km hike (one way) known as the Trephina Ridgetop Walk. If the waterhole at John Hayes is full, it offers a sort-of inviting spot for a swim.
At the Trephina Gorge day-use area, you’ll find picnic tables, water, and restroom facilities. Both the Gorge Campground and the Bluff Campground offer amenities such as drop toilets, fire pits, BBQs and tables. Additionally, there’s a dedicated 4WD-only campground at John Hayes Rock Hole.
A noteworthy attraction nearby is the largest Ghost Gum in Central Australia, situated in the vicinity of John Hayes Rock Hole!
Ross River Resort
Situated just 86 kilometres from Alice Springs, Ross River Resort exudes outback character. Originally built in the 1890s as Loves Creek Homestead, it has evolved into a unique oasis in the outback. The resort offers rustic en suite cabins, camping sites, bunkhouse accommodations, a swimming pool, bar, dining room, conference facilities, bushwalking, bird watching, fuel, and more.
N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park
Located about 90 kilometres east of Alice Springs in the East MacDonnell Ranges, N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park features over 5,800 Aboriginal rock engravings. Access to the area requires traversing shallow water and sandy creek beds, making it a genuinely off-the-beaten-path experience. Camping is available, but space is limited. The campsite offers a drop toilet, fire pits, and tables, but gathering firewood is prohibited. Hiking up to the gorge allows you to view many of the engravings.
Arltunga Historical Reserve
Around 117 kilometres past Alice Springs lies Arltunga, Central Australia’s first town born from the gold rush of 1887. It’s a fascinating destination for all ages. Start your visit at the information centre to gain insight into the ruins you’ll explore. The reserve offers toilets and BBQs. Wander among the ruins, including the gold mines themselves, and discover old mining equipment, some of which is set up as hands-on displays. Find the restored police station, jail and other infrastructure in lesser states. While you can’t fossick within the reserve, a designated fossicking area is located outside.
Hale River Homestead
Located around 128 kilometres past Alice Springs (when not detouring to Ruby Gap), Hale River Homestead is a fantastic stop along the Binns Track. The homestead boasts a charming café, and various accommodation options, including camping, powered caravan sites, self-contained units, a cottage, and a bunkhouse. Visitors can enjoy bushwalks, take in stunning views from Frederick’s lookout, and relax in the open space.
Ruby Gap Nature Park
Ruby Gap Nature Park, located approximately 152 kilometres past Alice Springs, is a real adventure with multiple creek crossings. It’s a highlight of the East MacDonnell Ranges, offering high gorge walls, a swimming hole, a sandy creek bed, and the thrill of finding red garnets. A high clearance 4WD vehicle and experience are necessary, as the track can be challenging. Camping is available, but there are no facilities, so you’ll need to be self-sufficient with your own equipment and supplies.
Gem Tree
Gem Tree, situated north of the East MacDonnell Ranges along the Plenty Highway, is a hidden gem with all the necessary facilities for RV travellers, including fuel, showers, toilets, and even washing machines. The park offers a large camping area with powered and unpowered sites and cabins for those who prefer not to camp.
The highlight at Gem Tree is the fossicking tours, where you can hunt for red garnets or zircons. The tours provide all the equipment you need, and if you order dinner, they’ll even deliver it to your campsite via a quad bike.
Where to stay in the East MacDonnell Ranges
Camping options are available at Trephina Gorge, Ruby Gap Nature Park, N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park, Ross River Resort, Hale River Homestead, and Gem Tree. Each offers a unique experience in this rugged and captivating region.
Gem Tree, Ross River Resort and Hale River Homestead are all booked direct however, all National Park campsites in the NT must now be booked online using the NT online booking system. Unless you are travelling with a Starlink Dish, this means planning where you’ll be heading in advance, as there is not much (if any) phone reception to book on the go.
Top tip: Google Maps can’t be trusted out here so make sure to get organised before hand by downloading maps to your device or by doing it the old-fashioned way with a map book.
