Are you considering getting a fishing kayak but don’t know what to look for or where to start? Dex Fulton gives us a rundown of the important things to consider when buying your first fishing kayak.
Do you like fishing, or just getting out on the water for a bit of adventure? Of course you do, you’re not a barbarian. When it comes to making the most out of a trip, having a watercraft along for the ride can make all the difference. Not to mention the feeling of cooking up a freshly caught fish over the coals with your choice of beverage. It’s what separates us from the animals that can’t operate a reel, which is presumably most of them.
Unfortunately, a lot of us like to tow our campers or caravans behind us, which rules out bringing any decent-sized boat or PWC along. Car-topper tinnies are an option but can be laborious to load, unload and set-up. The same goes with an inflatable Zodiac-type hull.
Kayaks, however, are relatively easy to transport on some roof racks. They’re also light enough to be moved around by one or two people and offer fantastic fishing platforms. And not to get all informercially on you, but they also keep you in great shape while having fun.
Size kinda matters
Sorry, we know it’s the low-hanging fruit of double entendres but it’s an important one. When selecting the right kayak for your intended purpose the first consideration is length. These range from a throw-it-over-your-shoulder ~2.7m up to 4m+, and they can get up to 1m in beam too. So factor transport, launching, retrieval and storage into your purchase.
Broadly speaking, a kayak below 3m is good for shallow, narrow and calm waterways. They have a huge amount of manoeuvrability and are relatively simple to move around and transport. If you’re venturing out into estuaries or the ocean and will likely encounter choppy waters, then you’re going to be looking north of 3m for a fishing kayak that suits both your needs and your body size. Shaq and Kevin Hart are probably not going to be comfy in the exact same kayak, so shop accordingly.
Pedal or paddle your fishing kayak?
If fishing is your focus, then a pedal-powered kayak is pretty much the go-to. They take a hell of a lot less effort to cover distance, leave your hands free for rigging up and casting, and are generally just a lot nicer on the water. However, that nicety comes at a price.
They’re generally only available in the 3m+ size range, they weigh a buttload (50kg+ is the norm), they’re more expensive, and the drive units are often not suitable for very shallow water or portaging (dragging over dry land).
With that said, the downsides are vastly outnumbered by the long-distance and fishing performance, and the increased beam contributes to better primary (stationary) and secondary (being rocked side-to-side) stability.
Hull shape
Which brings us to the hull shape of your fishing kayak. Look, hydrodynamics is a black art and is the murky domain of dark wizards like naval architects and well-salted seadogs. However, the rudimentary rundown is that a fair bit can be determined about how your kayak will handle on the water by looking at the hull shape from head-on.
The cliff notes are as follows. Rounded hulls, or soft-chined kayaks, have excellent secondary stability, while V-shaped hulls with angular sides, also called hard-chined, will have better primary stability. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, and your choice will be largely dependent on the waterways you’re planning on fishing. So be sure to ask the sales rep if the kayak you’re leaning towards will suit your needs.
SoT vs. SinK fishing kayaks
Selecting a Sit on Top (SoT) or Sit in Kayak (SinK) is the next cab off the rank. For fishing the general preference is a SoT Kayak, however there are a few key advantages to a SinK platform. The first is that they’re also faster and lighter than an equivalent-sized SoT, which may be a consideration. You’re also a lot better protected from the elements. Essentially, that means you stay drier when on the water. However you also keep your legs protected from the sun, and long distance paddlers tend to prefer their SinKs.
At the SoT end of things, you have a higher level of overall stability, essentially 360° of movement for chasing and spotting fish, and a much easier time getting on and off the kayak. You also tend to have more useable deck space for gear on a SoT set-up. You will get wet and are much more exposed to the wind and sun, so keep that in mind. Rocking budgie smugglers is a no go, sorry fellas.
In keeping with the recurring theme of subjectiveness when buying a fishing kayak, the best bet is to sit in both and see which one suits your needs.
Inclusions you need for your fishing kayak
Given that we’re talking fishing kayaks here, we’ll keep this to an angling set-up. Otherwise, this list could run for days. Here’s what we have in our own kayak.
A good seat is a must. If the seat that comes stock on your kayak does not hold up after a couple of hours chasing fish, then the investment in a supportive aftermarket unit is money well spent.
You’ll also need at least two rod holders, preferably mounted on a track rail system so you can move them to suit the fishing you’re doing. We generally like to have one behind for trolling and one in front for flicking at structure or casting at schools. It also allows for two different outfits if you’re chasing bait before moving onto larger game.
Lastly, having enough deck space, storage and, most importantly, keeping your fishing kayak organised is paramount. Somewhere for your tackle, a dry-box or two for your phone and valuables, and a few lashing points for your lip-grips, pliers, net and scissors. Esky storage and a water bladder are also musts if you’re going out for more than an hour or two. Dehydration is a serious issue on the water.
Optional, but strongly suggested, is the provision for a small battery and fish sounder. The reasons are fairly obvious but knowing things like the depth, terrain you’re over and water temps can be a godsend.
Tight lines and happy angling!
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