What do green-ant jam, QLD’s oldest pub, riverside free camps, an outback winery, a ride in a Model-T Ford with no brakes and a giant wombat all have in common? They can all be experienced on The Adventure Way Loop, a four-day Outback QLD road trip through the charming small towns found within the St George region in QLD.
Also known as ‘The Gateway to Outback QLD’, St George can be found a six-hour drive west of Brisbane or 10 hours northwest of Sydney. And given that it gets uncomfortably hot in Outback QLD in summer and it’s coming into cooler weather, now is the perfect time to do this road trip.
Here’s a suggested four-day itinerary for The Adventure Way Loop. However, if you have a few days spare up your sleeve, we definitely recommend spending extra time here.
Start of day location – St George
The Adventure Way Loop road trip begins in St George in Outback QLD (population app. 3,300 people), and if you’re a lucky duck with a few extra days up your sleeve, this is a great spot to use one of them. At the very least, plan to arrive the day before so you get a full day in before heading to Nindigully just down the road for the night.
Trent Challenger, who owns the St George Bakery, also owns a Model T Ford and for a donation to the Royal Flying Doctors Service, he’ll take you for a ride around town in it. According to Trent, it doesn’t have brakes so you have to plan your corners and use the horn. Drop in first and tee up a time though, in case they’re busy.
Even if you don’t want a ride in the Model T, visit the bakery. It’s next level deliciously stocked and even does pizza on a Friday and Saturday night.
Time your visit for lunchtime to take advantage of the picturesque country gardens, a top spot to eat a meal, which you can buy from the onsite cafe. It wouldn’t be a vineyard without wine tastings, would it? At Riversands, you’ll find a bush story in every glass when you tour the vineyards and taste the wines.
Riversands is open from 9 am to 5 pm Monday to Saturday and 9 am to 4 pm on Sunday, but you’ll need to call ahead to confirm hours, as times may vary due to seasonal demand. I bet you never thought you’d visit a vineyard on an Outback QLD road trip!
The town of St George in Outback QLD is built along the banks of the Balonne River, and as a result, you’ll find a two-kilometre stretch of shady path flanking the town. Road trip weary legs will appreciate the leisurely stroll, which begins below the Jack Taylor Weir.
The building of Anchorage Homestead began in 1903, taking around seven years to build. This beautiful heritage house is made entirely of local western cypress with imported red cedar trimmings, windows, doors and staircase. The majority of the house is original and the gardens have flourished under the care of their new owner, Robin. Although The Anchorage is privately owned, visitors are welcome at specific times.
Robin is a delightful host, full of fascinating stories involving echidna orgies under the house and how the original owner accidentally helped the Ned Kelly gang escape. She also makes fantastic home-style scones which can be enjoyed on the verandah with Mr Wilson (the Dachshund) and Matilda (the Mareema).
Jump in your car and make tracks to the Nindigully Pub as your last port of call for the day on this Outback QLD road trip. This is also where you’ll set up camp for the night along the banks of the Moonie River. It’s a free camp too, so it won’t cost a cent!
The Nindigully Pub is one of QLD’s oldest hotels with a pub license being issued in 1864, after it operated as shearer’s accommodation for the Nindigully Station. From the late 1800’s, it was a Cobb and Co. coach change-over station. Today this wonderfully restored pub stands in its original condition and position on the banks of the Moonie River.
The Nindigully Pub is the home of the famous ‘Road Train’ burger, which will feed at least four hungry people with a 1.2kg beef patty and sides.
At St George, you can’t go past the Pelican Rest Tourist Park. The amenities are clean, the grounds are spacious (8 acres), and the grass is green. You’ll find it on the northern edge of town on the Roma Road. There’s even a 12m heated therapeutic swimming pool.
At Nindigully, camping is free outside the Nindigully Pub either in the dusty parking lot or closer to the river under the shady trees. Toilets and showers are available. This is also where it finally starts feeling like the Outback on this road trip.
End of day location – Nindigully (Population app. 9 people)
Start of day location – Nindigully
Once you’ve eaten at the Nindigully Pub and strolled the Gully Walk along the banks of the Moonie River, there isn’t much else to do here unless you have a fishing rod. So after breakfast, pack up camp and head to the small town of Thallon (population app. 231 people) just down the road.
Check out the Watering Hole Mural at McGeever Recreation Grounds. This is also where you’ll set up camp for the night. Camping is free for an unpowered site.
The Watering Hole Mural covers four 30-metre-high silos that feature icons from the district, including the Moonie River, a scarred tree recognising Thallon’s Indigenous community, a beautiful sunset, a mob of sheep and pale-faced rosellas. They are lit up at night by a ground light so it really is a great spot to camp.
When Sir Major Thomas Mitchell passed through this area in 1846, the land along the Moonie River in what is now the Thallon district was already occupied by cattle stations. Head out on the Old Town walking tour to learn about Thallon in its hey-day. Alternatively, embark on the short Roads of Yesterday driving tour near Thallon. Copies of booklets can be found at the Francis Hotel, where you’ll also find a cool display of historic photographs spanning the hallway.
William the Wombat is a giant two-metre-high and 3.5-metre-long sculpture that resides in Thallon’s town park. Thallon has a special connection to the northern hairy-nosed wombat with some of the earliest specimens found in the area. Those travelling with kids will be pleased to find a series of climbing footholds on one side of William, a clear indication that you are allowed to climb him.
Speaking of Thallon Town Park, it’s a nice spot to have a picnic with shady trees, a playground, free electric BBQs, toilets and picnic tables. Here, you’ll also find a granite ‘Anzac Digger’ war memorial statue to commemorate the Centenary of Gallipoli.
Camping is free at McGeever Recreation Grounds for an unpowered site. Toilets and showers are available here. Powered sites are available for $10 on a first-in-best-dressed basis so once you set up, stroll into town and pay at the Francis Hotel.
End of day location – Thallon
Start of day location – Thallon
Once you’ve had breakfast and packed up, make tracks to the small town of Dirranbandi (population app. 639 people).
Throw a line in, have a picnic or just stretch your legs. However you decide to kick back and relax on this Outback Qld road trip, Jack Dwyer Memorial Park is where to do it.
The Dirranbandi bakery features a stocked cabinet full of bakery favourites like pies, sausage rolls and vanilla slices. Grab your vice and head next door to Railway Park, where you’ll find some picnic tables and shady areas to eat.
Stroll around the park, and you’ll find the 1913 Station Master’s residence (now the Rural Transaction/Visitor Information Centre), the original parcels office and the old waiting room.
Get to know the facts and figures behind Cubbie Station, Australia’s largest cotton farm and the Southern Hemisphere’s largest irrigation property. This tour gives an in-depth insight into the unique gravity diversion infrastructure of the station, that was originally developed by the mastermind Des Stevenson, to ensure the former sheep and cattle stations were both environmentally and economically sustainable.
End-of-day location – Dirranbandi
Starting location – Dirranbandi
The final leg of your Outback QLD road trip will see you drive just over an hour to the small and utterly charming town of Bollon (population app. 228 people). Once you set up camp by Wallam Creek and watch your first parade of ducks and chickens – a twice-daily occurrence it seems – you’ll quickly realise that the best has been saved for last. If you have an extra night up your sleeve, this free campsite is worthy.
Book into the Nullawokka Cultural Walk tour where your guide Bill, a descendant of the local Kooma people, will meet you at the campsite to begin an easy stroll around the nearby reserve where you will discover historical scar trees, bush medicine and boomerang throwing before heading back to the gallery (a 140-year-old post office building) for a gourmet bush tucker tasting. This is where the green ant jam comes into it, and it’s surprisingly … not bad!
The Bollon Heritage Centre can be found nestled in the heart of the main street. Here, you can spend an arvo retracing Bollon’s history and even the die-hard history buffs will be surprised by the range of artefacts and stories that narrate the town’s rural history and Aboriginal culture.
Stroll the Cultural Walk alongside Wallam Creek and relax at camp, where you’ll be amazed at the birdlife and serenity.
Camp at the Wallam Creek Free Camp (the most serene campsite on this Outback QLD road trip). Here you will find a toilet, but fair warning, the campsite is flanked by a small cemetery. A 1.2-kilometre stroll into town along a concrete path beside the river will find you a free shower as well.
End of day location – Bollon
Sadly, this is the end of your Outback QLD road trip. You can either complete the loop by heading back to St George (around a one hour and 15 minutes drive) or roll on to your next adventure.
The distances between towns is not large but being Outback QLD, the road is not always smooth sailing, despite being sealed. Keep an eye out for kangaroos, other wildlife and potholes and avoid driving during and after dusk.
For more information on the St George region in QLD, visit Explore St George.
