Crossing the Simpson Desert: Why going slow is the way to go (plus tips on how to do it)


Crossing the Simpson Desert is one of those epic journeys on every 4WD enthusiast’s dream list. It’s remote, beautiful, raw, rugged, and one of the most iconic places you can experience in Australia. If you haven’t heard of it, grab your closest device and check out a satellite map of Australia. See that huge red-looking patch right smack bang in the centre? That’s it.
Normally people cross the 500km stretch in three days and two nights. However, at a maximum speed of 60km an hour, this schedule means you end up driving 10-12 hrs a day. I’m a huge advocate for taking an extra day or two.
Despite the fact that it was almost 40 degrees when we crossed the Simpson Desert in our Toyota Troopcarriers (one of which had no aircon) and the flies were truly insane, we had an absolute blast.
Here’s why you should take an extra day or two when crossing the Simpson Desert.
It goes without saying that crossing the Simpson is a fairly advanced 4WD trip that you shouldn’t take lightly. However, you don’t need to be a complete pro to do it. Although there are challenging sections, the 4WDing aspect isn’t overly technical.
The dunes are big, steep and soft, so an understanding of how to drive in the sand is a must. The most important thing to remember is to let your tyre pressure right down and drive in low gear while keeping your revs high. If you’re new to 4WDing, go with an experienced mate or up your experience by taking a 4WD course. Tackling some soft sand beach driving to get a feel for it beforehand will certainly help.
Peace and quiet are nice but being in remote Australia is a real mental challenge as it forces resilience. When we crossed, we didn’t see another person for a full 24 hrs. Even then, it was only a passing convoy, so after a quick chat, we were back on our way. It was scary and thrilling being out there with only ourselves to rely on. There’s something about sitting in the middle of the desert with no humans and only sand dunes as far as the eye can see that really puts things into perspective.
If you can adjust to the isolation, it’s a wonderful feeling to have no reception and no noise—except, of course, for the crackling fire and the chance to sit with yourself and your thoughts in nature. Although we faced incessant flies, long days in the car, and oppressive heat, it was all worth it when we made it up that final dune at the end, feeling utterly stoked and accomplished.
You might assume that the desert is barren, but Australia has incredible diversity and rich life across all of its corners, including the Simpson Desert. The diverse array of nature and wildlife we encountered on our adventure was mesmerising.
We saw goannas, snakes and tell-tale dingo footprints following the single-lane track across the dunes. Each morning, animal tracks of all kinds spread an intricate pattern across the campsite. Sunset over the red sand is like none I’ve ever seen and the contrast of the rich red and blue sky was incredible. There had been some rain before we crossed so the dunes were covered in sprouting green shrubs and gorgeous miniature yellow flowers. We often encountered trees full of tiny red zebra finches.
We didn’t take the shortest route, instead heading across on the WAA line and detouring down to the lone gum tree, an actual gum in the middle of the desert. We saw plenty of varied scenery other than just dune after dune after dune. There were rocky gibber plains, crusty salt flats and fields of cool tufty grasses that looked like troll dolls.
One day, we set camp early, around 2 p.m., lit a fire, and cooked an amazing meal on the coals. It was nice to take some time and really allow ourselves to relax and soak it all in. One morning, we didn’t leave camp until 10 a.m. and were treated to an enormous flock of budgies cutting laps between the dunes straight over the top of our camp, something we wouldn’t have seen if we had driven all day.
There was plenty of time to stop on top of huge dunes and run down them taking photos. We even had time to send the drone up and capture some incredible scenery. Arriving at the iconic ‘Big Red’ (the last sand dune) in the early afternoon allowed us to spend the rest of the day taking turns driving up the monster dune and cheering on others doing the same.
It was so worth taking the extra time to really soak up the experience and make it a memorable journey.
The biggest challenge of this trip isn’t the actual driving. It’s being completely self-sufficient and prepared with everything you need to make it to the other side. Here’s what you need to organise before you attempt crossing the Simpson Desert:
Regardless of which way you go, as long as you’re prepared and take time to stop and smell the…um… sand…you’ll have an epic time and make memories that will last forever!
Totally agree with you on this article. Back in 2016 we did the crossing from Mt Dare to Birdsville and we did the same as you guys (WAA Line, Lone Gum, back to French Line and then QAA Line). We did 4 nights and 5 days for the crossing and thoroughly enjoyed every minute of the trip. There had also been plenty of rain a couple of months earlier and the wildflowers were on full display. For me, one of the best parts were the skies at night. They were just sensational. The sight so many stars of the Milky Way at times made it look like a streak of cloud across the sky. Highly recommend the trip to anyone.
so is it possible to tow a camper or van across the Simpson?