Crossing the Simpson Desert: Why going slow is the way to go

Crossing the Simpson Desert is one of those epic journeys on every 4WD enthusiast’s dream list. It’s remote, beautiful, raw, rugged, and one of the most iconic places you can experience in Australia. If you haven’t heard of it, grab your closest device and check out a satellite map of Australia. See that huge red-looking patch right smack bang in the centre? That’s it.

Normally people cross the 500km stretch in three days and two nights. However, at a maximum speed of 60km an hour, this schedule means you end up driving 10-12 hrs a day. I’m a huge advocate for taking an extra day or two.

Despite the fact that it was almost 40 degrees when we crossed the Simpson Desert in our Toyota Troopcarriers (one of which had no aircon) and the flies were truly insane, we had an absolute blast.

Here’s why you should take an extra day or two when crossing the Simpson Desert.

Crossing the Simpson Desert is a test of skills

It goes without saying that crossing the Simpson is a fairly advanced 4WD trip that you shouldn’t take lightly. However, you don’t need to be a complete pro to do it. Although there are challenging sections, the 4WDing aspect isn’t overly technical.

The dunes are big, steep and soft, so an understanding of how to drive in the sand is a must. The most important thing to remember is to let your tyre pressure right down and drive in low gear while keeping your revs high. If you’re new to 4WDing, go with an experienced mate or up your experience by taking a 4WD course. Tackling some soft sand beach driving to get a feel for it beforehand will certainly help.

Crossing the Simpson Desert is a mental challenge

Peace and quiet are nice but being in remote Australia is a real mental challenge as it forces resilience. When we crossed, we didn’t see another person for a full 24 hrs. Even then, it was only a passing convoy, so after a quick chat, we were back on our way. It was scary and thrilling being out there with only ourselves to rely on. There’s something about sitting in the middle of the desert with no humans and only sand dunes as far as the eye can see that really puts things into perspective.

If you can adjust to the isolation, it’s a wonderful feeling to have no reception and no noise—except, of course, for the crackling fire and the chance to sit with yourself and your thoughts in nature. Although we faced incessant flies, long days in the car, and oppressive heat, it was all worth it when we made it up that final dune at the end, feeling utterly stoked and accomplished.

The Simpson Desert has stunning natural scenery

You might assume that the desert is barren, but Australia has incredible diversity and rich life across all of its corners, including the Simpson Desert. The diverse array of nature and wildlife we encountered on our adventure was mesmerising.

We saw goannas, snakes and tell-tale dingo footprints following the single-lane track across the dunes. Each morning, animal tracks of all kinds spread an intricate pattern across the campsite. Sunset over the red sand is like none I’ve ever seen and the contrast of the rich red and blue sky was incredible. There had been some rain before we crossed so the dunes were covered in sprouting green shrubs and gorgeous miniature yellow flowers. We often encountered trees full of tiny red zebra finches.

Take your time crossing the Simpson Desert

We didn’t take the shortest route, instead heading across on the WAA line and detouring down to the lone gum tree, an actual gum in the middle of the desert. We saw plenty of varied scenery other than just dune after dune after dune. There were rocky gibber plains, crusty salt flats and fields of cool tufty grasses that looked like troll dolls.

One day, we set camp early, around 2 p.m., lit a fire, and cooked an amazing meal on the coals. It was nice to take some time and really allow ourselves to relax and soak it all in. One morning, we didn’t leave camp until 10 a.m. and were treated to an enormous flock of budgies cutting laps between the dunes straight over the top of our camp, something we wouldn’t have seen if we had driven all day.

There was plenty of time to stop on top of huge dunes and run down them taking photos. We even had time to send the drone up and capture some incredible scenery. Arriving at the iconic ‘Big Red’ (the last sand dune) in the early afternoon allowed us to spend the rest of the day taking turns driving up the monster dune and cheering on others doing the same.

It was so worth taking the extra time to really soak up the experience and make it a memorable journey.

The biggest challenge of this trip isn’t the actual driving. It’s being completely self-sufficient and prepared with everything you need to make it to the other side. Here’s what you need to organise before you attempt crossing the Simpson Desert:

Here’s what you need before crossing the Simpson Desert

Recovery gear: In the Simpson Desert, a safety flag is a legal requirement for visibility while driving up and down steep dunes. You should also have recovery boards, a long-handled shovel for digging your tyres out, a winch, and snatch straps.
Two-way radio: To communicate with other cars on the track and others in your convoy
Compressor and tyre pressure gauge: At various stages of the trip, you’ll need to lower and pump up the tyres.
Extra fuel: There are 500km between fuel stops (Mount Dare—Birdsville), and driving in low-range on soft sand will use more fuel than normal.
Extra water: Allow for 10L of water per person per day. You probably won’t use all that, but at least if something goes wrong and you get stuck an extra day or two, you’ll be fine.
Desert Parks Pass: The National Parks pass covers all camping in the park, maps of the tracks, and essential info. You can buy it in advance online or at Mt Dare Roadhouse.
Communication: There’s no reception in the desert, so it’s worth hiring a satellite phone in case you get into trouble. You can get one at Mount Dare for $40 per day and drop it off at the Birdsville Info Centre.
Fly nets: I can not stress this enough, these are a must-have.
Shovel and toilet paper: There are no toilets in the desert. Read this great guide on how to poo when there’s no loo over at Unsealed4x4.
Firewood: There isn’t much wood in the desert, and the fragile landscape needs to be preserved.
Gas stove and cooking gear
Tent/sleeping gear
First aid kit

Tips for crossing the Simpson Desert

It’s recommended that you travel in convoy with at least one other car in case you get into trouble and need to be pulled out or send for help. Plus, it’s more fun in a group!
Brush up on your 4WD skills before you head out, especially in soft sand, and keep an eye on the weather forecast. It doesn’t often rain in the desert, but when it does, the salt flats can become impassable.
Depending on where you’re based, you might choose to travel from east to west or vice versa. Most people choose to travel from the west (Mount Dare) to the east (Birdsville) because the dominant Westerly wind makes the western sides of the dunes longer and less steep.

Regardless of which way you go, as long as you’re prepared and take time to stop and smell the…um… sand…you’ll have an epic time and make memories that will last forever!